If you're thinking about buying your first dildo or you just want to add to your collection, you probably wonder what makes this toy so special. Dildos have long been one of the most versatile and best-loved sex toys, and they can give pleasure both internally and externally. Their design isn't limited to one shape or size, so there's a dildo for every taste and preference. Whether you want something realistic, something with exciting textures or a minimalist design, the options are almost endless.

Penis-shaped objects are very old. In the Hohle Fels cave (Germany), a siltstone phallus about 28,000 years old and about 20 cm long was found. The researchers who studied it saw that it was also used to knap flint, and it isn't known whether it had a sexual use. In ancient Greece, olisbos were popular among women, which shows that female sexual pleasure was already valued back then.

Today the sex toy market is booming. Dildos, as an essential part of that market, have seen innovations in materials, shapes and features that make them more accessible and appealing than ever.

There's a dildo for every taste, body and experience level. Here's an overview of the main types:

The measurement that decides your purchase, and why two spec sheets can't be compared

This section comes from counting our own catalog spec sheet by spec sheet instead of repeating general advice. When we did this count, in early September 2026, we sold 394 dildos in this store and opened every one of their spec sheets, field by field. The result is uncomfortable, and it's the reason it's worth reading what follows: when you compare two dildos by length, most of the time you're not comparing the same thing.

A dildo has two lengths, and most spec sheets don't tell you which one you're getting

The total length is the whole object, from tip to base. The insertable length is what actually goes in, and it's the one that decides whether the toy works for you. The difference is the base: the suction cup, the safety flare, the handle.

Of our 394 dildos, 104 publish a length stating that it's the insertable one and 103 publish a total length. 82 publish both, and in those the difference between the two is a median of 3.5 centimeters, with cases of up to 14.0.

And here's the big group, the one that matters: 174 spec sheets publish a measurement without saying which of the two it is. It appears simply as "Measurements." Another 95 publish no measurement at all, and 75 publish no spec sheet of any kind. So the most common case in this category isn't a missing number: it's that the number is there and you don't know what it's measuring.

The practical consequence is that 3.5-centimeter difference. A dildo advertised at twenty centimeters and another advertised at sixteen can be the same size on the inside if the first measures the whole object and the second only the part that goes in. That's exactly the margin between getting it right and not.

And the number comes under eight different labels

If you've ever looked at the features table on a spec sheet, you'll have noticed that the field isn't always named the same. We counted eight different names for the same thing in our catalog: measurements, insertable measurements, insertable length, usable length, total length, length, insertable and diameter. They aren't eight pieces of data, they're two pieces of data spread across eight labels, and some of them don't even use the same unit: there are spec sheets where the usable length is in millimeters and spec sheets where the insertable one is in centimeters, with the same meaning and a factor of ten difference.

We didn't invent this, and it's not a supplier acting in bad faith. It's what happens when data from twenty manufacturers enters the same catalog through different routes and nobody unifies it. We're telling you because it's our job and because knowing it helps you read any spec sheet, ours or any other store's.

How to read a spec sheet from now on

Three rules for reading any spec sheet in this category, ours or any other store's. The first: if the spec sheet says insertable, that number is the one to trust. As of today, nobody writes our spec sheets by hand: the system generates them from a data record for each product, with fixed labels, so when it says "Insertable length" it's because the data was labeled that way at the source. While writing this page we found 110 spec sheets where our own copywriter had chosen that word, and they were corrected.

The second, and the one you'll use most: if it says just "Measurements," you don't know what they're measuring, and that's 174 of 394. Treat it as the whole object and subtract 3.5 centimeters to estimate what goes in. The third is no longer needed: packaging dimensions now have their own label.

Diameter deserves its own paragraph because it's the other number that decides, and in some ways it matters more than length. 119 of our 394 dildos publish it, almost a third, a few more than those that state their length is the insertable one (104). If you're coming from other experience and want to size up, diameter is what to look at: a couple of extra centimeters of length are barely noticeable, and half a centimeter more of diameter is very noticeable. The table that follows sorts both figures by material, so you can see at a glance where each family falls.

The same 394 spec sheets, counted in early September 2026 and sorted by the label on the number they publish. The median difference can only be calculated for those that publish both, and it's exactly the margin of error you carry when you compare a spec sheet that gives the total length with one that gives the insertable length.

The supplier's box disguised as a specification

Let's go back to measurements for a moment, because there's a case worth knowing how to spot, and it isn't unique to us: you'll see the same thing in almost any store in the industry.

For a long time, 309 of our spec sheets published a dimensions field that didn't describe the toy: it described the carton it arrives in. A value like 330x180x66 millimeters is the packaging, passed as is from the supplier's file into a field that looks exactly like a product feature.

That's already fixed, and it's worth telling: today those 309 spec sheets publish that data under its own label, "Packaging dimensions," separate from the product measurements. It's the same number as before, no longer in disguise. We're telling you because the pattern is still alive in almost any store in the industry, and now you know how to spot it: three numbers separated by x's and in millimeters are a box, not a toy.

What gives it away isn't the field name, it's the format of the value: three axes and millimeters is almost always a box. A toy is measured with one or two numbers and in centimeters. It took us a while to figure this out because in other parts of the catalog that same field does contain the product, so you can't decide by the label, you have to look at the shape of the data. It's the rule our own count uses from today and the one we give you: if you see three numbers separated by x's in millimeters, ignore them, they aren't about the toy.

And one consequence of separating that field, which you can see in the figures above: once the box stopped being counted as if it were the product, the real measurement gap in this category came into view, and it's 95 spec sheets with no measurement out of 394.

The materials on our shelf, counted one by one

Almost every dildo guide out there says the same thing about materials: silicone good, glass good, PVC bad, avoid it. It's a chart that gets copied from site to site, and it has an obvious problem when a store publishes it: we sell several of the materials that chart says to avoid. So instead of repeating it, we counted our own shelf, and what comes out is more useful and more honest than a traffic light.

The distinction that really matters isn't good or bad, it's porous or non-porous, and it's a physical property of the material, not an opinion about the brand. Silicone, glass, metal and hard plastics have a closed surface: you wash them with soap and water and, if needed, boil them or clean them with alcohol, and whatever was on them is gone. TPE, TPR, PVC, latex and synthetic skin are open structures: they absorb, and there's no household process that sterilizes them. The table below puts each family in our catalog on its side of that line, with its median price and how much each one publishes.

Silicone, the biggest family and the default answer

114 of our dildos are silicone, more than any other family, and its median price is the highest of the big ones. You pay for something real: it's the only soft material you can boil, it lasts years without breaking down and it doesn't react with skin. If you're going to buy just one dildo and don't want to think about it more, buy a silicone one. Its only known incompatibility is silicone lubricant, which damages the surface over time; with water-based lubricant there's no problem.

TPE and TPR, the second group and the one that causes the most confusion

82 spec sheets, with a median price well below silicone's, and here's the catch: to the touch they feel very similar. TPE is soft, pleasant and realistic, which is why almost all skin-like dildos use it. It's also porous, so you can clean the outside but you can't sterilize it. That doesn't make it a bad product: it makes it a one-owner product, used with a condom if shared. With that condition met, a TPE dildo is a perfectly reasonable purchase, although it's among the worst at publishing its insertable length: a little over one in four spec sheets gives it.

PVC and jelly: cheap, porous, and with missing information

Almost everything we had in PVC or jelly is no longer for sale: of the 32 spec sheets in the table below, counted in early September, 1 is left today. It's the family with the worst reputation, almost always because of phthalates, the plasticizers that make the material soft. The standard recommendation is to choose ones that declare themselves phthalate-free, and this is where we ran into a figure we didn't expect: that information isn't in the spec sheet in a way we can count, so we can't tell you how many declare it.

In other words, the usual advice, as it's normally given, is almost impossible to follow in practice, and not just in our store: if the manufacturer doesn't put it in the spec sheet, there's no way for you to know by looking. We'd rather say so than pretend the information exists. What you can do is the same thing you'd do with a TPE toy, and it works just as well: use a condom, keep it to one owner, wash it with soap and water after every use, and replace it when the surface starts to feel sticky or changes smell, which is the sign the material is breaking down. With that routine, a PVC dildo is a perfectly usable toy.

Latex and rubber, and what the spec sheet tells you

Some of our dildos list latex, rubber or gum rubber as their material, and it's worth separating the two: latex has one trait that no other material on this list shares, some people are allergic to it, and rubber is not the same as latex. Latex allergy is common, shows up as irritation, itching or hives where the skin touches it, and in sensitized people it can be much more serious than a nuisance.

Since September, the spec sheet tells you when the information is available: anything containing latex says "Contains latex," and anything the manufacturer declares latex-free says "Latex-free." In this family there are only a few of each, and for the rest nothing is stated either way: if you're allergic, check the composition or ask us before you buy. And if you've never been tested but you react to gloves or to regular condoms, choose silicone, glass or TPE.

Glass, and why it has its own page

7 spec sheets, median price in the middle of the category, and a completely different experience: rigid, smooth, can be sterilized without limit, and works for temperature play, which is the main reason people buy it. The borosilicate used in many of them is the same glass as laboratory glassware and doesn't break with normal use, though you should check it if it's dropped. Its median diameter is narrower than silicone's, and none has a suction cup.

The comparison between silicone and glass deserves more room than we have here, so it has its own page: silicone or glass, which to choose, with the two families side by side and three recommendations from each. If you're torn between those two materials, that's the place to go; this page is for when you don't yet know which family to start with.

And the spec sheets that don't say what they're made of

109 of our dildos don't declare a material we can identify. Some leave the field empty, which is an omission; others fill it with something that isn't a material, like "soft, durable material" or "phthalate-free," which fills the space and says nothing. When a spec sheet doesn't name the material, the honest reading is that you don't know, and the sensible thing is to ask us before you buy: for a specific product on a specific day, that's a question we can answer, even though a page about a whole category can't answer it for you.

Dildos in stock in early September 2026, counted from our live catalog. "Price level" compares each family's median with silicone's, which is set at 100. Each spec sheet is counted once, by the first material it names, so the rows add up to the total. "Boilable" is about porosity, not durability: a TPE dildo can last longer than a glass one and still can't be sterilized.

Realistic Dildo Mr. Intense Neeson 27cm

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$61.99

King Cock Plus 3D Dildo with Swinging Balls

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$94.99

How much does a dildo cost, and where does the money go

The first thing that surprises you when you count the whole category is how narrow the price band is. Between the cheapest and the most expensive of our 394 dildos there is a big gap, but the vast majority sit in a small range, and the category's median price is at the low end of what people expect. A dildo is not an expensive purchase.

Material drives the price, but not the way you'd expect

Looking at the medians by family in the table above, silicone is the most expensive of the big ones and TPE the cheapest. That fits what each material costs and how long it lasts. What doesn't fit intuition is glass: it's seen as a luxury product, it's the material that cleans best and lasts a lifetime, and its median is below silicone's. If you want something that never degrades and you don't mind it being rigid, glass is the best value for what you pay and how long it lasts in the whole category.

What's worth paying extra for and what isn't

Within the same family, price differences come mostly from size, finish and brand. A large silicone dildo costs more than a small one because it uses more silicone, and there's no trick there. What's worth looking at carefully is the price jump that sometimes comes with the word realistic: dual density, which is a firm core inside a soft layer, adds quite a bit to the price and is a difference you can feel; the cosmetic detail of veins and color, on the other hand, changes nothing about how it's used.

And one observation that comes from the data, not from opinion. We call a spec sheet complete when it publishes the three things that matter: material, insertable length and diameter. In our sample, the cheapest third has 18% complete spec sheets and the most expensive third 23%: price doesn't save you from reading the spec sheet. If you're torn between two similar products, the one that tells you what it's made of and how long it is inside is a better buy than the one that doesn't, whatever the other one costs.

Suction cup and strap-on harness, the two extras that really change how you use it

Of everything a spec sheet can advertise, only two things substantially change what you can do with the toy, and both are easy to check before you buy.

The suction cup

186 of our 394 dildos have a suction cup. It's the most useful extra in the category and the most underrated: it sticks the toy to a smooth surface and frees both hands, which is the difference between one position and several. It works on tile, glass and any truly smooth surface; it doesn't work on painted walls or porous wood, however much the manufacturer's photo suggests otherwise.

It's worth knowing that the suction cup isn't equally good in every family. A soft silicone base seals better than a rigid plastic one, and the weight of the toy matters: a large, heavy dildo will come loose on its own, however good the suction cup is. If the suction cup is why you're buying, choose a medium size over the largest.

Strap-on harness compatibility

Far fewer have it, and it helps to understand why: for a dildo to work with a strap-on harness it needs a wide, flat base, wider than the harness ring, and that rules out most designs. A suction cup often works as a harness base, but not always, and the ring diameter varies between models.

If you're going to buy both, the practical advice is to buy them together or check the ring size first: it's the most common mistake with this purchase and it's completely avoidable. And if you're unsure, write to us with the specific harness model; it's exactly the kind of question that gets answered in a minute for a specific product and that a general page can't answer.

What you almost never need

In this category there are extras that sound good and add little. Vibration in a dildo is one of them: only 21 spec sheets declare levels or modes, almost none, because a dildo isn't designed for that and anyone who wants vibration buys something else. Water resistance is another case, though a different one: 86 spec sheets declare it, about a third, and it still matters little. In a toy with no motor there's nothing inside that can get wet, so the relevant question isn't whether it's fully waterproof (submersible) but whether the material tolerates hot water, which is the usual material question.

Three dildos that tell you what you're buying

One per material, and the rule is the same for all: among those of that material we take the ones that publish the insertable length, then the ones that also publish the diameter, and of those the cheapest one still on sale. A family with fewer than three spec sheets doesn't qualify, because it doesn't represent anything. None of our opinions decides the pick.

SILICONEEPIC NIXIE Dildo - Inspired by Water Nymphsinsertable 13.5 cm · diameter 3.5 cm · with suction cup  TPE / TPRGet Real Deluxe 15 cm Realistic-Feel Dildoinsertable 13.0 cm · diameter 3.0 cm · with suction cup  GLASSS Pleasures Crystal AQUARIUS Dildo with Blue Detailsinsertable 18.0 cm · diameter 2.6 cm 

Extra Thick Realistic Dildo with Balls Get Real Deluxe

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$38.99

Realistic Dildo Mr Intense Gary with Testicles

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$35.99

If it's your first one

Everything above boiled down to what to do, for anyone who has already decided to buy and doesn't want to read a table.

Start smaller than you think

It's the advice most often repeated and least often followed. One thing we can tell you with the data in front of us: the median insertable length of what we have for sale is set by the catalog, not by your body, and a catalog is filled with products that catch the eye in a photo. There's no reason to take that median as a reference for anything. For a first dildo, choose below it and pay most attention to the diameter, which is what you really notice: two centimeters more in length barely changes anything, and half a centimeter more in width changes a lot.

Silicone, and that settles the material

It's the only soft material you can boil, it doesn't degrade, and it has no contraindications beyond silicone lubricant. If you're only going to buy one, make it silicone and don't overthink it. If budget rules, a TPE from a spec sheet that publishes its insertable length is a perfectly reasonable buy, as long as you treat it as yours alone and use a condom if it's shared.

Choose a spec sheet that tells you what you're buying

Between two similar products, pick the one that publishes the material, insertable length and diameter. Not because the product is better, but because you know what's arriving. It's the criterion used to choose the cards above, and one you can apply in any store.

And what you need that isn't the toy

Water-based lubricant, which works with every material on this page and turns an uncomfortable first time into a good one. Time, which is free. And for any anal play, a wide base or suction cup without exception: it's the only rule in this category that allows no nuance, because the rectum has no end stop and a toy without a base can get lost inside. If the dildo you like doesn't have a wide base, it's not for that.

With so many options, it's normal to feel a bit lost. These six criteria will help you decide:

If it's your first time using a dildo, the most important thing is to relax and enjoy the process. Before you start, relax your pelvic floor; this will help make the experience more comfortable and pleasurable. Arousal is key, so take time to stimulate yourself externally. You can start with your fingers to warm up. The idea is to feel completely at ease before you insert the toy.

Lubrication is absolutely critical. If your dildo is silicone, make sure to use a water-based lubricant to avoid damaging the material. With glass or metal toys, you can use any type of lubricant. Don't skimp on the amount, and don't hesitate to reapply as often as you need during the session. Good lubrication not only improves the sensation, it also helps prevent irritation.

When you're on your own, there are several positions you can try. Lying on your back with your knees bent is one of the most common. You can also try riding a suction cup dildo on a chair or the floor. Doggy style or even standing in the shower are other good options. What matters is that you find the position that feels most comfortable and pleasurable for you.

With a partner, communication is your best ally. Talk with your partner about what you like and what you don't. Bringing a dildo into oral sex or foreplay can be very exciting. You can also let your partner control the depth and the rhythm, which can add an extra level of excitement and connection.

If you have a glass dildo, you can play with temperature to vary the sensations. Dip it in hot water or cool it in the refrigerator for about five minutes. Remember, never put it in the freezer, since extreme cold could be harmful to you and to the toy.

For anal use, it's essential that the dildo has a wide base to prevent accidents. Always use a generous amount of lubricant and start with a small size. Don't rush; your body needs time to adjust. If you plan to switch from anal to vaginal use, always change the condom to keep things hygienic. Patience and preparation are key to a safe and pleasurable experience.

If you want to keep your toys in perfect condition, cleaning and care are essential, both before and after every use. It's important to wash your dildos not only to keep them in good shape, but also to protect your health. Before using them, make sure they're clean to avoid any risk of infection. After use, it's crucial to clean them to remove any residue that may have been left behind. This routine will help you enjoy your toys safely and make them last longer.

When you choose dildos made of non-porous materials like silicone, glass or stainless steel, you have several cleaning options. Warm water and a mild soap are the standard method. For a deeper disinfection, boil the toy for 3 to 5 minutes or place it on the top rack of the dishwasher. An isopropyl alcohol wipe at 70% also works.

If your dildo is made of porous materials like TPE or PVC, it's best to stick to soap and water. These materials are more prone to harboring bacteria, so it's a good idea to use a condom over them every time you use them. Also, replace them as soon as the surface turns sticky, changes smell or color, or cracks.

To store your toys, it's best to use individual cloth bags so they don't touch other materials. Different materials stored together could react chemically and get damaged. Keep your dildos in a cool, dry place. Watch for signs of wear, like a sticky surface, discoloration, cracks or a bad smell. These mean it's time to replace them. Sticking to this routine will help you enjoy your toys safely and comfortably.

Questions about size and materials, with the numbers up front

The listing says 20 cm. Does all 20 cm go in?

It depends on the label, and the label is reliable. If the field says "Insertable length," yes: that's 104 listings, and that data comes labeled that way from the source. If it says "Total length," subtract from it: in the 82 that publish both, the median difference is 3.5 centimeters. And if it just says "Dimensions," which is 174 of them, you can't know: treat it as the whole object.

Why don't you always publish the insertable length?

Because the supplier only labels it that way for some of its products, and as of today we don't put that word ourselves on a number that arrives unlabeled. 104 of 394 publish it; 174 publish an unspecified measurement and 95 publish none. If you need the insertable length of a product that doesn't list it, ask us: we can often measure it or request it.

What's the best-selling size?

We'd rather give you a better reference than that: the median insertable length of what we have for sale and the median diameter by material are in the table. A first dildo below that median is the choice the fewest people regret. What we won't do is turn a sales figure into advice about your body.

Is TPE dangerous?

No, it's porous, which is a different thing. It can't be sterilized, so it's a one-owner toy, used with a condom if shared, and replaced when the surface changes in feel or smell. If you do that, it's a perfectly usable material, and it's 82 of our listings. If that routine sounds like a hassle, silicone skips all of it.

I'm allergic to latex. What should I avoid?

Since the materials table count, almost all rubber dildos have been discontinued: today 2 listings name latex, rubber or gum rubber in their material. The latex one carries a warning in the listing ("Contains latex: not suitable if you have a latex allergy"); the rubber one has no warning, so you have to check the material field yourself, and if it isn't clear, ask us. Silicone, glass, metal and TPE don't contain latex. Be careful when reading: some listings say "latex-free," which means the opposite of what you might think when it's missing.

Can I boil my dildo?

Silicone, glass and metal, yes, for a few minutes, and it's the way to truly sterilize them. TPE, TPR, PVC, jelly and latex, no: heat deforms them, and there's nothing to sterilize in a material that absorbs. For those, use soap and water, dry completely and store separately.

Which lubricant should I use?

Water-based lubricant with everything on this page, without exception. Silicone lubricant damages silicone toys over time, and those are 114 of ours, and oil-based lubricant degrades latex and ruins condoms. If you're only going to keep one bottle at home, make it water-based.

Do I need a suction cup?

186 of our 394 dildos have one, and it's the most useful extra in the category, though not essential. For anal play, though, a wide base isn't an extra: it's mandatory, with or without a suction cup.